This summer I am traveling around California, exploring wine countries up and down the coast and in the central valley. Last Saturday I made a trip up to Amador County, about 45 minute drive east of Sacramento, where you’ll find about thirty wineries in the heart of the historic Sierra foothill Gold Country. The Amador Vintners have tasting rooms in the Shenandoah Valley, Fiddletown, Sutter Creek, Willow Creek and Ione areas.
Most of the vineyards are planted on hillsides ranging between 500 and 2,300 feet, with most between 1,200 and 2,000. The vines are planted in well-drained, volcanic, decomposed granite soils, which limit vegetative growth and result in small crops of intensely flavored grapes. This area gets a lot of heat and sunshine so many of the wines are a bit high in alcohol (15 percent or more is not uncommon) and they tend to be very fruit forward with dense concentrated flavors.
The nice thing about this area is that it doesn’t have the hectic tourist traffic of Napa or Sonoma. The long winding roads provide a scenic drive with beautiful vistas of oak covered rolling hills and the atmosphere of the tasting rooms are very relaxed with a lot of “out in the country” hospitality. You also don’t have to spend a ton of money on tasting fees and the wines are generally reasonably priced.
Since this is hot climate you won’t find much Cabernet, Chardonnay let alone cool climate grapes like Pinot Noir. What you will enjoy here is Rhône varietals such as Viognier, Syrah and Petite Syrah as well as a few Italian wines such as Nebbiolo and Sangiovese but more than anything else – loads of Old Vine Zinfandel.
Sobon Estate Vineyards & Winery
My first stop on this hot Saturday (101 degrees!) was at Sobon Estate a family-owned winery that also owns Shenandoah Vineyards. Adjacent to the tasting room there is a small museum with some very interesting antique wine making equipment.
The Sobon Estate winery started in 1989 when Leon and Shirley Sobon bought each other a second winery for their 30th wedding anniversary present. They purchased the historic D'Agostini Winery, one of the oldest in the state.
I sampled the 2008 Viognier which is 96% Viognier and 4% Grenache Blanc, barrel Fermented and Sur Lie aged in older French and American Oak. Viognier is by nature an intensely floral wine and so the little bit of Grenache Blanc helps rein it back and brings out its spicy notes. This is an excellent wine at this price ($16).
The next wine was the 2008 Rousanne which is comprised of 85% Roussanne, 9% Viognier and 6% Grenache Blanc. It was fermented and aged in 50% new French and American Oak barrels. This wine is more complex than the Viognier with layers of floral aromas, butterscotch, honey and caramelized pear. At only $14 this is a great wine so I brought two bottles home.
My first red was the 2007 “Cougar Hill” Zinfandel (14.9% alc.). It is 95% Estate Zinfandel 5% Petite Syrah, aged 12 months in 30% new French & American Oa., It is a smooth medium bodied wine with plenty of cola, cedar, a wisp of cigar box and tobacco on the nose. Lush with a bit sweetness and plenty of black and red berries palate, well balanced acidity and refined tannins with a lightly spiced white peppery finish. At $18 it is a fair price.
My second red was the 2007 "Old Vines" Zinfandel which consists of 100% Estate Zinfandel (97%) from various estate vineyards and a little Petite Syrah (3%). This is a good everyday drinking table wine. It has lots of oak, soft and fruity on the nose and palate with fresh blackberry pie and a touch of chocolate. Not as spicy and peppery as some their other zins. At only $12, this is a great buy.
My next red wine was the 2007 "Rocky Top" Zinfandel which is 96% Zinfandel and 4% Petite Syrah. This is an excellent example of the “Amador” Zinfandel style with intense and concentrated aromas of ripe blackberries, cherries, and cocoa. This wine is made entirely from their estate owned CCOF certified organically grown grapesThis is a classic zin blackberries, cherry cola and black pepper, with a touch of honey sweetness on the nose. On the palate the nose is confirmed but with more dominant cherry cola, violets and black pepper on the finish. . It is five bucks cheaper ($17) than the “Fiddletown” Zin and yet this one was my favorite.
My final red wine was the 2007 “Fiddletown” Zinfandel ($22) which is 91% Zinfandel from the Lubenko Vineyard, Fiddletown and 9% Petite Syrah (15.2% alc.). It is aged 14 months in 40% new American and Hungarian Oak barrels. This is a multilayered wine, with loads cherry on the nose and palate with earthy dusty on the back end. Plenty of Spice, moderately complex with full concentrated fruit form start to finish.
Dobra Zemilja Winery
My second stop was at Dobra Zemlja (pronounced: dobra zem-ya), which means means "Good Earth" in Croatian. The winery and tasting room are housed in a restored late-19thcentury facility, complete with wine cave where you can taste the wines with a view of their barrels. The grounds are beautiful and there are plenty tables enjoy a picnic lunch, sip a bit of wine with a view of the garden and a nearby duck pond.
I tasted the Milan Ruz (non-vintage) ($16), the 2008 Viognier ($18) which has lots of fresh peach flavors, it is floral but not overly so and it has a nice minerality. I also tasted the 2007 Sangiovese ($26), the 2006 Syrah ($26), the 2006 Barbera ($26), the 2007 Sangre De Toro Tempranillo ($26) and finally the 2007 Kikas (or “kick ass”) Zinfandel Style Port ($26). Of all the reds I preferred the Barbera and brought one home.
Amador Foothill Winery
My third stop was at Amador Foothill Winery which is located at 12500 Steiner Road in Plymouth. While tasting their wines I had the opportunity to chat with the owner-winemaker Katie Quinn. Amador Foothill Winery produces three classic vineyard-designated Zinfandels and as well as Sangiovese and Aglianico, Sauvignon Blanc, a Late Harvest Semillon, and an Rhone-style blend called Katie’s Cote
I tasted the 2006 Esola Vineyard Zinfandel ($18) which comes from Lena Esola's gnarly, 65 year old vines. It has intense and luscious spicy, dark fruit aromas and complex raspberry and plum flavors as well as supple, ripe tannins and firm acidity, and exceptional balance. I bought a bottle and enjoyed it the following evening at a barbeque with some friends.
I then tasted the 2006 Ferrero Zinfandel ($18) which comes from a 50 year old section of John Ferrero's head-pruned, dry-farmed vineyard. Plenty of black cherries, tar and chocolate with well integrated spice, vanilla and subtle oak.
My final wine was the 2006 Katie's Cote Rhone style blend which consists of 51% Syrah and 49% Grenache. They have planted some Mourvèdre which they intend to add to the blend to make it a classic GSM, but the vines are too young at this time. The wine has raspberry and blackberry fruit on the nose and palate and a touch spiciness on the finish.
Shenandoah Vineyards
My fourth winery was Shenandoah Vineyards, founded by Leon and Shirley Sobon in 1977. They were one of the first four wineries in Amador County's now well known Shenandoah Valley appellation. I visited this winery a couple years ago and in my opinion they make the best wines in the area. Their wines come from all estate grown grapes from their sustainably-farmed vineyards. They have an impressive line up of wines and for $5 you can taste their reserve wines and take a souvenir wine glass home.
I first tasted the 2007 ReZerve Paul's Vineyard Zinfandel which consists of 96% Zinfandel and 4% Petite Sirah. The fruit is concentrated, ripe and intense. It has a prominent character of old leather, blackberries and oak followed by a touch of cola, pepper and on nose and palate, with a prolonged spicy finish. A great wine for only $24 so I brought one home.
My second wines was the 2006 ReZerve Tempranillo which is 82% Tempranillo, and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon ($24). Deep, red-purple color, very approachable with an intriguing nose with spice, berry and herbaceous notes. The tannins are supple and yet firm, with a medium finish, nice balance of fruit, spice and acid.
My third wine was the 2006 ReZerve Barbera which consists of 92% Barbera, 4% Sangiovese and 4%Syrah ($24). Rich fresh nose of mint, cherry, and subtle wild flowers. Lively raspberry, plum, and cocoa flavors. Balanced and tart with refreshing acidity, and a bit of heat in the finish (14.5% alc.).
Shenandoah Vineyards also has an nice line up desert wines and I tasted the 2007 ReZerve 30th Anniversary BZP Port 500ml ($18) and the 2007 Vintage Port 375ml ($14).
All of these wines are impressive and I brought a ReZerve Paul's Vineyard Zin and BZP Port home with me.
Karmère Vineyards
After enjoying a picnic lunch my final stop of the day was at Karmère Vineyards and Winery at 11970 Shenandoah Road in Plymouth. The name "Karmère" (car-mare) is in honor of co-founder Marilyn K Hoopes’ mother Karma Hoopes: "mère" is the French word for mother. Marilyn is an attorney and her husband Todd is an optometrist and they have three grown children, Josh, Jared, and Hayley (who was my server) all of whom are involved in the winery or vineyards. Todd continues to practice optometry and Marilyn works as a part-time Administrative Law Judge devoting the majority of her time to the winery and vineyards. The have 67 acres planted on their 105 acre estate consisting of Zinfandel (planted in l994) Syrah, Barbera, Viognier, Primitivo and Nebbiolo.
I tasted the Drew's Syrah ($19.31), the Rachel’s Syrah ($21.15), the Morgans Nebbiolo/Syrah ($24.83), and the Daisy's Zinfandel ($19.31). The temperature outside by this time was 101 degrees and the inside of the tasting room wasn’t too much cooler. The result was that the wines seemed a little too warm. I had visited this winery a couple years ago and was impressed then so I didn’t want to judge their wines based on their exaggerated room temperature. They seemed to have a little too much heat, felt slight flabby on the palate and yet maintained their fruit quality. I bought two bottles of their wine and tasted the Morgans Nebbiolo/Syrah the following day at a barbeque under better temperature conditions and there was a noticeable improvement.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
A Foggy Day of “June Gloom” Wine Tasting
Last week I finished final exams for the Spring semester in Las Positas College’s enology program so I decided to celebrate by heading up to the Napa Valley to explore a few wineries.
As I traveled across the bay early Saturday morning I began to wonder if I would ever see the sun. It is not uncommon to have in the morning what is often referred to have “June Gloom.” Typically the day starts with fog and heavy overcast but by noon it burns off and the sun begins to shine. But as I ventured into the south end of the Napa Valley in Carneros I concluded that if I wanted to see the sun I needed to drive as north as possible. So, I took the less traveled route up the Silverado Trail and then when I got to Calistoga I cut across to Highway 29.
Twomey Cellars
My first stop was in Calistoga and my first winery was Twomey. This winery is owned by Silver Oak Cellars and it is named after the founder’s wife. I had visited this winery years ago but at the time they only produced Merlot and a very small production of Pinot Noir, which at the time was sold out. On this return visit (with the fog still rolling in) I tasted their Sauvignon Blanc, three of their four Pinot Noirs, their limited production and soon to end Syrah, and their flagship Merlot.
The 2008 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($25) is not your typical California representative. This is no Chardonnay wannabe. This wine is straw yellow, has great acidity, a stony minerality, its bone dry and yet maintains plenty of fruit - lime, guava, grapefruit and lemon grass.
I tasted the 2007 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($50), the 2007 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($50), and the 2007 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($50). The Anderson Valley and the Sonoma Coast are more of the raspberry jam style with a little spice thrown in while the Russian has more cola and root beer in the background that I prefer in California Pinots.
My next wine was the 2007 Napa Valley Syrah ($25) which I was informed will no longer be produced because the vines have been uprooted and Cabernet Sauvignon has been planted in its place. This is unfortunate because I preferred this Syrah to the Pinot Noirs. It is a deep plum-red with plenty of fruit and spice on the nose with a hint of violets and apricots undoubtedly from the 5% Viognier. This was followed by a mouth full of rich red fruits and a smoky leathery finish. I brought a bottle of this one home!
My final wine was the 2005 Napa Valley Merlot ($50). This is a BIG Merlot (almost Cabernet-like) with an intensely concentrated nose of black cherries, blackberries, bing cherries and a hint of ground black pepper. It is a full-bodied and velvety wine with pronounced but supple tannins with a prolonged finish.
Rubicon Estate
After my stop at Twomey it was around 11 a.m. and as I headed down Highway 29 the sun suddenly came out and the beauty and glory of the Napa Valley began to shine. Traffic was surprising light and so I decided to visit what is normally a busy tourist stop - Rubicon Estate.
The winery is owned by movie director Francis Ford Coppala. The Rubicon Estate Winery (formerly Niebaum-Coppola Winery and Inglenook Winery) sits on a portion of the historic Napa Valley property first acquired in 1879 by a Finnish Sea Captain Gustave Niebaum, founder of the Inglenook Winery. In 1975, Francis Ford Coppola and his wife Eleanor, purchased Niebaum’s Victorian home, along with 120 acres of surrounding vineyards. In 1995, Coppola reunited the two original Inglenook parcels by purchasing the grand Inglenook chateau and surrounding vineyards (neighboring vineyards include Heitz Wine Cellars Martha’s Vineyard and Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour). The winery underwent a name change in early 2006, and is now known as Rubicon Estate. Coppola's winemaker is Scott McLeod, a UC Davis alumnus with winemaking background in Tuscany.
I had tried a couple Coppolla red wines from the grocery store (Rosso and Bianco, two wines in the $10 range) and wasn’t overly impressed. However, in one of my wine classes last Fall we tasted an Estate Cask Cabernet Sauvignon which really caught my attention.
Unfortunately I didn’t arrive in time for the first tour and missed it by just a few minutes. But I did wander around the estate to take a few pictures and take a peek at the Hollywood museum.
Rubicon has two “flights” so you can either taste five estate white wines or five red wines for a $30 tasting fee (ouch!) To be honest the two flights don’t make much sense. Why not allow visitors to choose from either list? They have a Marsanne and a Viognier blend on the White Wine Flight that I would have liked to have tried. But, given the choice between the two I chose the Red Wine Flight.
I tasted the 2006 Captain’s Reserve Pinot Noir ($38), the 2005 Captain’s Reserve Zinfandel ($30), the 2005 Captain’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($52), the 2006 Cabernet Franc ($56), and the 2005 Estate Cask Cabernet Sauvignon ($75).
All of these wines were outstanding, though perhaps a bit overly priced. There are plenty of wines of equal quality but a lot more affordable elsewhere in the valley.
The Pinot Noir is more Burgundian in style, more earthly and full-bodied than a typical California Pinot. The Zinfandel has great vanilla notes on the nose with accents of blackberries, strawberry jam followed by plenty of pepper and spice. The Cabernet Sauvignon has plenty of fruit, a hint of eucalyptus and mint, has supple tannins and is well balanced with a nice finish. The Cab Franc is “different” with a mouth full of clove, tobacco, with plenty of red and black fruit. The finish stops a little short but then there is a surprising time-delayed return. The Cask Cabernet Sauvignon is awesome and this is big brother to the Captain’s reserve is definitely an age-worthy wine with great cellaring potential of 5 to 15 years.
Black Stallion Winery
I then drove further down Highway 29 but by this time the typical tourist traffic began to build up so I drove back across the valley on side road and headed south again on the Silverado Trail. Over the past few years I have been able to visit to all of the wineries on the trail with the exception of two: Chafer with isn’t open on weekends and requires advanced appointments on either a Monday, Wednesday or Friday. But, I do plan to visit this winery sometime soon!
The other winery is one which I have for years have watched be built during my frequent trips up and down the trail - Black Stallion Winery. This winery opened about two years ago and most of the surrounding vines are newly planted and won’t be producing fruit for the winery for a few more years to come. So, currently all their grapes come from outside sources from around the valley.
I tasted the 2007 Pinot Grigio ($22), the 2006 Chardonnay - Carneros, Napa Valley ($38), the 2005 Merlot - Oakville District ($42), the 2005 Syrah - Oak Knoll ($25), and the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley ($65).
All of these wines are respectable though perhaps a bit steep in terms of the price/quality ratio. Of all of them I thought the Syrah was the best value and I brought a bottle home to share with friends.
As I traveled across the bay early Saturday morning I began to wonder if I would ever see the sun. It is not uncommon to have in the morning what is often referred to have “June Gloom.” Typically the day starts with fog and heavy overcast but by noon it burns off and the sun begins to shine. But as I ventured into the south end of the Napa Valley in Carneros I concluded that if I wanted to see the sun I needed to drive as north as possible. So, I took the less traveled route up the Silverado Trail and then when I got to Calistoga I cut across to Highway 29.
Twomey Cellars
My first stop was in Calistoga and my first winery was Twomey. This winery is owned by Silver Oak Cellars and it is named after the founder’s wife. I had visited this winery years ago but at the time they only produced Merlot and a very small production of Pinot Noir, which at the time was sold out. On this return visit (with the fog still rolling in) I tasted their Sauvignon Blanc, three of their four Pinot Noirs, their limited production and soon to end Syrah, and their flagship Merlot.
The 2008 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($25) is not your typical California representative. This is no Chardonnay wannabe. This wine is straw yellow, has great acidity, a stony minerality, its bone dry and yet maintains plenty of fruit - lime, guava, grapefruit and lemon grass.
I tasted the 2007 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($50), the 2007 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($50), and the 2007 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($50). The Anderson Valley and the Sonoma Coast are more of the raspberry jam style with a little spice thrown in while the Russian has more cola and root beer in the background that I prefer in California Pinots.
My next wine was the 2007 Napa Valley Syrah ($25) which I was informed will no longer be produced because the vines have been uprooted and Cabernet Sauvignon has been planted in its place. This is unfortunate because I preferred this Syrah to the Pinot Noirs. It is a deep plum-red with plenty of fruit and spice on the nose with a hint of violets and apricots undoubtedly from the 5% Viognier. This was followed by a mouth full of rich red fruits and a smoky leathery finish. I brought a bottle of this one home!
My final wine was the 2005 Napa Valley Merlot ($50). This is a BIG Merlot (almost Cabernet-like) with an intensely concentrated nose of black cherries, blackberries, bing cherries and a hint of ground black pepper. It is a full-bodied and velvety wine with pronounced but supple tannins with a prolonged finish.
Rubicon Estate
After my stop at Twomey it was around 11 a.m. and as I headed down Highway 29 the sun suddenly came out and the beauty and glory of the Napa Valley began to shine. Traffic was surprising light and so I decided to visit what is normally a busy tourist stop - Rubicon Estate.
The winery is owned by movie director Francis Ford Coppala. The Rubicon Estate Winery (formerly Niebaum-Coppola Winery and Inglenook Winery) sits on a portion of the historic Napa Valley property first acquired in 1879 by a Finnish Sea Captain Gustave Niebaum, founder of the Inglenook Winery. In 1975, Francis Ford Coppola and his wife Eleanor, purchased Niebaum’s Victorian home, along with 120 acres of surrounding vineyards. In 1995, Coppola reunited the two original Inglenook parcels by purchasing the grand Inglenook chateau and surrounding vineyards (neighboring vineyards include Heitz Wine Cellars Martha’s Vineyard and Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour). The winery underwent a name change in early 2006, and is now known as Rubicon Estate. Coppola's winemaker is Scott McLeod, a UC Davis alumnus with winemaking background in Tuscany.
I had tried a couple Coppolla red wines from the grocery store (Rosso and Bianco, two wines in the $10 range) and wasn’t overly impressed. However, in one of my wine classes last Fall we tasted an Estate Cask Cabernet Sauvignon which really caught my attention.
Unfortunately I didn’t arrive in time for the first tour and missed it by just a few minutes. But I did wander around the estate to take a few pictures and take a peek at the Hollywood museum.
Rubicon has two “flights” so you can either taste five estate white wines or five red wines for a $30 tasting fee (ouch!) To be honest the two flights don’t make much sense. Why not allow visitors to choose from either list? They have a Marsanne and a Viognier blend on the White Wine Flight that I would have liked to have tried. But, given the choice between the two I chose the Red Wine Flight.
I tasted the 2006 Captain’s Reserve Pinot Noir ($38), the 2005 Captain’s Reserve Zinfandel ($30), the 2005 Captain’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($52), the 2006 Cabernet Franc ($56), and the 2005 Estate Cask Cabernet Sauvignon ($75).
All of these wines were outstanding, though perhaps a bit overly priced. There are plenty of wines of equal quality but a lot more affordable elsewhere in the valley.
The Pinot Noir is more Burgundian in style, more earthly and full-bodied than a typical California Pinot. The Zinfandel has great vanilla notes on the nose with accents of blackberries, strawberry jam followed by plenty of pepper and spice. The Cabernet Sauvignon has plenty of fruit, a hint of eucalyptus and mint, has supple tannins and is well balanced with a nice finish. The Cab Franc is “different” with a mouth full of clove, tobacco, with plenty of red and black fruit. The finish stops a little short but then there is a surprising time-delayed return. The Cask Cabernet Sauvignon is awesome and this is big brother to the Captain’s reserve is definitely an age-worthy wine with great cellaring potential of 5 to 15 years.
Black Stallion Winery
I then drove further down Highway 29 but by this time the typical tourist traffic began to build up so I drove back across the valley on side road and headed south again on the Silverado Trail. Over the past few years I have been able to visit to all of the wineries on the trail with the exception of two: Chafer with isn’t open on weekends and requires advanced appointments on either a Monday, Wednesday or Friday. But, I do plan to visit this winery sometime soon!
The other winery is one which I have for years have watched be built during my frequent trips up and down the trail - Black Stallion Winery. This winery opened about two years ago and most of the surrounding vines are newly planted and won’t be producing fruit for the winery for a few more years to come. So, currently all their grapes come from outside sources from around the valley.
I tasted the 2007 Pinot Grigio ($22), the 2006 Chardonnay - Carneros, Napa Valley ($38), the 2005 Merlot - Oakville District ($42), the 2005 Syrah - Oak Knoll ($25), and the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - Napa Valley ($65).
All of these wines are respectable though perhaps a bit steep in terms of the price/quality ratio. Of all of them I thought the Syrah was the best value and I brought a bottle home to share with friends.
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Wine Tasting Adventures at An Amusement Park?
When I mention “Napa Valley” to my fellow enologists, wine enthusiasts, and compatriots in the wine business many of them complain that it has become “too Disneyland.” They then go on to assert that the focus has gone from making quality wine to becoming just another tourist destination. The perception is that Napa has become overly focused on the things other than the wine and consequently it has sold its soul for glitz and glamour.
But has the Napa Valley really sold out?
The days in which you could taste for free in the valley are long gone. In fact, the average tasting charge is between $10 and $40 and many of the wineries definitely cater to the tourist who has come purely for the “see it all” experience. No doubt they are still producing fine wines and some of the best Cabernets in the world. But are the $100 price tags really justified? Or is it the primarily name that demands the big bucks?
Darioush
Take Darioush for example. I first visited this winery when the site was under construction and the wines were being sold out of a trailer. If I recall correctly, the first vintage was the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon which I purchased for $27. It was absolutely fantastic. Now the 2006 release goes for $80 and it isn’t anywhere near the ’07. In fact, I have been back to Darioush a few times since the Persian palace was built and I have yet to be impressed with any of their wines.
But has the Napa Valley really sold out?
The days in which you could taste for free in the valley are long gone. In fact, the average tasting charge is between $10 and $40 and many of the wineries definitely cater to the tourist who has come purely for the “see it all” experience. No doubt they are still producing fine wines and some of the best Cabernets in the world. But are the $100 price tags really justified? Or is it the primarily name that demands the big bucks?
Darioush
Take Darioush for example. I first visited this winery when the site was under construction and the wines were being sold out of a trailer. If I recall correctly, the first vintage was the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon which I purchased for $27. It was absolutely fantastic. Now the 2006 release goes for $80 and it isn’t anywhere near the ’07. In fact, I have been back to Darioush a few times since the Persian palace was built and I have yet to be impressed with any of their wines.
Has the focus on the building and tourist accommodations overrun their vision for making fine wine?
It is not uncommon for me to find some of the best wines to be made by low production hole-in-the-wall wineries out in the country, far from anything one might consider a tourist destination. Such places are not much to look at, but they make great wine at a fair price because they don’t have to spend millions of dollars on fancy buildings.
Castello di Amorosa Winery
Probably THE most Disneyland-like wineries in the Napa is Castello di Amorosa Winery, located near Calistoga (http://www.castellodiamorosa.com/). This castle winery was built by Daryl Sattui who spent about 30 million dollars and 14 years constructing the medieval replica castle. It is definitely an eye-catching fortress with a moat, a drawbridge; defensive towers, an interior courtyard, a torture chamber, a chapel/church, a knights' chamber and a 72 by 30 feetgreat hall with a 22-foot high coffered ceiling.
The torture chamber has a $13,000 authentic 300-year-old iron maiden from in Pienza Italy , a replica rack, prison chambers and other torture devices. The great hall features frescoes painted by two Italian artists who took about a year and a half to complete and showcases a 500 year old fireplace.
The masonry, ironwork and woodwork were fashioned by hand using old world crafting techniques. Building materials included 8,000 tons of locally quarried stone, in addition to paving stones, terra cotta roofing tiles and some 850,000 bricks imported from Europe. Extending into the hillside adjacent to the castle is a labyrinth of caves some 900 feet in length. Beneath the castle are a 2-acre barrel cellar and tasting rooms where visitors can sample the wines-all sold only at the Castle.
But is the character of this winery that of a replica medieval relic or a new theme park in Northern California like Marine World and Great America?
Is this winery to be taken seriously by wine aficionados or should we expect to see Mickey Mouse coming out to welcome visitors?
The only way to decide is to try their wines.
On Saturday May 23rd (Memorial Day weekend) a friend and I took a leisurely drive up to the Castle and after wandering the grounds we ventured beneath the castle down to the two-acre barrel cellar and tasting room. For $10 we tried five wines (they charge an additional $5 for premium wines and castle tours cost an additional $10 but children get in free) and all of them were exceptional. They only bottle 8,000 cases a year which isn’t exactly a Gallo or Mondavi sized production. So they are able to keep an eye on quality.
I tasted the 2007 Reserve Chardonnay - Bien Nacido Vineyard ($38), the more oak influenced 2007 Napa Valley Chardonnay ($26), the sweeter 2007 "Dolcino" Gewurztraminer - Anderson Valley ($24), the 2005 Napa Valley Merlot ($34) and the 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($44).
Of these I thought the Merlot was outstanding.
In my opinion Castello di Amorosa is a fun place and they make respectable wines. The castle isn’t an eye sore in the valley as it is actually out of sight off of the main road. In order to see it you have to drive over a little hill unless you happen to be on the tram across the way at Sterling Vineyards. It is one of the few places that a family can go and both the parents and the kids can have a good time. How many of the other wineries in the valley are as family-friendly?
So, I give them two thumbs up for not only providing fine wines but also a place where parents with their kids can have a good time while remaining virtually invisable to their neighbors.
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
A Spring Day in the Wine Country
Nicholson Ranch - Sonoma
Winter has passed, the rainy season has ended and now the wild flowers are blooming amongst the vines that are beginning to bud under the warm California sun. Spring is finally shining in the wine country.
It is a beautiful time of the year to head up to the Napa Valley or Sonoma and see the fields of Mustard Flower, California poppies, and purple lupines. So, I drove up last week and toured through Los Carneros, which spans the south end of both Napa and Sonoma counties. It is the home of some of California’s finest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
My first stop was in the southern foothills of the Sonoma Valley, to visit the vineyards of Nicholson Ranch. The Ranch enjoys a combination of soils, sloping hills and a climate that is ideal for producing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Syrah grapes.
All of Nicholson Ranch’s chardonnays are barrel fermented on the lees using natural wild yeasts. This is a labor intensive method of producing wine which requires a nurturing approach to wine making as native wild yeasts can be as unpredictable as they are advantageous to wine making. On the one hand the variances in wild yeasts can add greater complexity to a wine but they can also present a danger of a stuck fermentation, which then presents an environment for all sorts of biological problems that can destroy a wine. The key to success is using native yeasts (as opposed to inoculating them and then using saccharomyces cerevisiae, a fast-acting yeast that thoroughly ferments the wine) is to have a well balanced vineyard) The benefit of natural fermentations is that they can yield a wine with greater complexity due to the multiple strains of yeast that are involved.
Fermenting the wine in the barrels is also more labor intensive than using stainless steel and the extended time on the lees (spent yeast cells) can also add some microbiological challenges. Barrel fermentation is a vinification process in which the wine is fermented in oak casks or oak vats barrels instead of large vats or stainless steel tanks. The fermentation process, tempers the flavors of the wood, imparting lighter flavors of cinnamon, vanilla, or cloves, caramel, butterscotch, toast, smoke or char rather than over whelming “oaky” flavors. Barrel fermentation is more expensive and labor intensive than fermentation in larger tanks but if done right it provides white wines with more complexity, rich creamy flavors, delicate oak characteristics, and better aging capabilities. On the downside, this technique potentially contributes to some loss of primary fruit flavor due to the wine becoming more characterized by the secondary flavors of the fermentation process.
However, if done correctly the result is a gorgeous wine with a full mouth feel and lingers forever. And THAT is exactly what you will find in the Chardonnays at Nicholson Ranch.
I tasted the 2006 Sonoma Valley Estate Chardonnay ($30), the 2005 and 2006 Estate Reserve Chardonnay Cuvee Natalie ($48/$48), the 2006 Pinot Noir Russian River ($42), 2006 Pinot Noir Sonoma Valley Estate ($38), the 2006 Las Madres Syrah ($35) and the 2004 Estate Syrah Sonoma Valley ($40).
All of these wines were quite excellent. However, I was disappointed by one thing. They serve these very high-end premium wines in the exact same absolutely terrible stemware! It is like putting a Rembrandt painting in a $10 plastic picture frame from Wal-Mart. While I don’t believe that a tasting room has to use a specialized Reidel glass for each varietal that they are serving, they ought to at least attempt to purchase suitable stemware that will better reveal the quality of their wines. (Hint: Check out Folio’s stemware!)
Valley of the Moon - Sonoma
My second stop was at Valley of the Moon. The winery and tasting room are surrounded by head pruned gnarly old vines which this time of year resembled small tree or the arthritic hands of an old man. Some of them stand as high as six feet tall. It was a quiet afternoon so I had the opportunity to just hang out with Jack Pilgreen, the wine steward in the tasting room. He was both hospitable and informative, able to answer any questions I had about the wine and the winery.
My first wine was the 2007 Sonoma County Pinot Blanc ($18). Very few wineries in California produced this grape and it is a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous Chardonnay that is at every winery. On the nose I picked up notes honeysuckle, kiwi, pear, tangerine, and apple. This wine has great acidity and a full mouth feel with just a tiny touch of oak. A rare find at this price so I brought one home.
My second wine was the 2007 Sonoma County Syrah ($20). This wine is displays dark black fruits of jammy blackberry followed, black pepper by sweet pipe tobacco followed by secondary characteristics of cedar (think “a hint of cigar box”). This wine is full-bodied flavors with firm but supple tannins followed by a well-balanced finish.
My third in the line up was the 2005 Sonoma Estate Old Vine Zinfandel. I’ve been a big fan of Old Vine Zins for years but it is not unusual for them to very high in alcohol and consequently out of balance. Michael David’s Earthquake Zin from Lodi is a perfect example. The difficulty is maintaining balance between the fruit, acidity, tannins and the alcohol so that the wine has a full mouth feel without the massive amount of heat on the return.
However, Valley of the Moon’s Old Vine Zin, though it is 15% in alcohol, manages to pull it off! Its got loads of blackberries, black pepper a little spice and vanilla, balanced acidity, supple tannins; with a well structured finish.
My next wine was the 2006 Barbara ($22). This one has an awesome nose with loads of concentrated plum, pomegranate, a touch of molasses and sweet tobacco. This is one of the best Barbaras that I have encountered in a long time. I could just sit and smell this wine all day!
My next wine was the 2005 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon. Black currant, plum a touch of black pepper and cocoa. The wine is fruit forward with supported by firm but supple tannins and a balanced finish.
My final wine in the line up was the 2005 Sonoma County Cuvee de La Luna ($35) This is a traditional Bordeaux/Meritage style blend (59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 4% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc). Loads of black currant and cherry aromas followed by sage and tobacco on the nose. Dense black cherry and cassis flavors with a slight vanilla and dark chocolate finish. This wine is well balanced, complex and has multiple layers of fruit. There are many wines of this style and this level of quality that sell for twice this price.
Folio Fine Wine Partners - Carneros
My final stop of the day was at Michael Mondavi’s winery. Michael is one of Robert Mondavi’s sons and after the family winery was sold to Constellation Michael started Folio Fine Wine Partners in 2004. This is an interesting approach to a winery as it is both a custom crush facility but also a manager of a collection of exceptional wines from all over the world including California, Spain, Austria and New Zealand. We love sharing high-quality, authentic wines from small wineries. In this manner Folio acts as a wine broker bringing wines to the attention of wholesale distributors who place the brands with retailers and restaurateurs.
In the tasting room I sampled the 2007 Hangtime Chardonnay ($15.99), the 2005 Mayro-Murdick Carneros ($35.99), the 2006 Oberon Merlot ($21.99), the 2006 Oberon Cabernet Sauvignon ($24.99), the Spellbound Petite Syrah ($17.99), and the 2005 Spellbound Old-Vine Zinfandel ($17.99). I thought the Syrah was an exceptional quality and a genuine value at only 18 bucks so I brought a bottle home.
All of these wines were exceptional and the service in the tasting room was polite, courteous, professional and well informed about the winery and the wines. I was also impressed in the stemware made by Senor Frescabaldi, a sort of “one size fits all” that they used for all of the wines which are imported from Italy and sell for $12.00 each.
Winter has passed, the rainy season has ended and now the wild flowers are blooming amongst the vines that are beginning to bud under the warm California sun. Spring is finally shining in the wine country.
It is a beautiful time of the year to head up to the Napa Valley or Sonoma and see the fields of Mustard Flower, California poppies, and purple lupines. So, I drove up last week and toured through Los Carneros, which spans the south end of both Napa and Sonoma counties. It is the home of some of California’s finest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
My first stop was in the southern foothills of the Sonoma Valley, to visit the vineyards of Nicholson Ranch. The Ranch enjoys a combination of soils, sloping hills and a climate that is ideal for producing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Syrah grapes.
All of Nicholson Ranch’s chardonnays are barrel fermented on the lees using natural wild yeasts. This is a labor intensive method of producing wine which requires a nurturing approach to wine making as native wild yeasts can be as unpredictable as they are advantageous to wine making. On the one hand the variances in wild yeasts can add greater complexity to a wine but they can also present a danger of a stuck fermentation, which then presents an environment for all sorts of biological problems that can destroy a wine. The key to success is using native yeasts (as opposed to inoculating them and then using saccharomyces cerevisiae, a fast-acting yeast that thoroughly ferments the wine) is to have a well balanced vineyard) The benefit of natural fermentations is that they can yield a wine with greater complexity due to the multiple strains of yeast that are involved.
Fermenting the wine in the barrels is also more labor intensive than using stainless steel and the extended time on the lees (spent yeast cells) can also add some microbiological challenges. Barrel fermentation is a vinification process in which the wine is fermented in oak casks or oak vats barrels instead of large vats or stainless steel tanks. The fermentation process, tempers the flavors of the wood, imparting lighter flavors of cinnamon, vanilla, or cloves, caramel, butterscotch, toast, smoke or char rather than over whelming “oaky” flavors. Barrel fermentation is more expensive and labor intensive than fermentation in larger tanks but if done right it provides white wines with more complexity, rich creamy flavors, delicate oak characteristics, and better aging capabilities. On the downside, this technique potentially contributes to some loss of primary fruit flavor due to the wine becoming more characterized by the secondary flavors of the fermentation process.
However, if done correctly the result is a gorgeous wine with a full mouth feel and lingers forever. And THAT is exactly what you will find in the Chardonnays at Nicholson Ranch.
I tasted the 2006 Sonoma Valley Estate Chardonnay ($30), the 2005 and 2006 Estate Reserve Chardonnay Cuvee Natalie ($48/$48), the 2006 Pinot Noir Russian River ($42), 2006 Pinot Noir Sonoma Valley Estate ($38), the 2006 Las Madres Syrah ($35) and the 2004 Estate Syrah Sonoma Valley ($40).
All of these wines were quite excellent. However, I was disappointed by one thing. They serve these very high-end premium wines in the exact same absolutely terrible stemware! It is like putting a Rembrandt painting in a $10 plastic picture frame from Wal-Mart. While I don’t believe that a tasting room has to use a specialized Reidel glass for each varietal that they are serving, they ought to at least attempt to purchase suitable stemware that will better reveal the quality of their wines. (Hint: Check out Folio’s stemware!)
Valley of the Moon - Sonoma
My second stop was at Valley of the Moon. The winery and tasting room are surrounded by head pruned gnarly old vines which this time of year resembled small tree or the arthritic hands of an old man. Some of them stand as high as six feet tall. It was a quiet afternoon so I had the opportunity to just hang out with Jack Pilgreen, the wine steward in the tasting room. He was both hospitable and informative, able to answer any questions I had about the wine and the winery.
My first wine was the 2007 Sonoma County Pinot Blanc ($18). Very few wineries in California produced this grape and it is a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous Chardonnay that is at every winery. On the nose I picked up notes honeysuckle, kiwi, pear, tangerine, and apple. This wine has great acidity and a full mouth feel with just a tiny touch of oak. A rare find at this price so I brought one home.
My second wine was the 2007 Sonoma County Syrah ($20). This wine is displays dark black fruits of jammy blackberry followed, black pepper by sweet pipe tobacco followed by secondary characteristics of cedar (think “a hint of cigar box”). This wine is full-bodied flavors with firm but supple tannins followed by a well-balanced finish.
My third in the line up was the 2005 Sonoma Estate Old Vine Zinfandel. I’ve been a big fan of Old Vine Zins for years but it is not unusual for them to very high in alcohol and consequently out of balance. Michael David’s Earthquake Zin from Lodi is a perfect example. The difficulty is maintaining balance between the fruit, acidity, tannins and the alcohol so that the wine has a full mouth feel without the massive amount of heat on the return.
However, Valley of the Moon’s Old Vine Zin, though it is 15% in alcohol, manages to pull it off! Its got loads of blackberries, black pepper a little spice and vanilla, balanced acidity, supple tannins; with a well structured finish.
My next wine was the 2006 Barbara ($22). This one has an awesome nose with loads of concentrated plum, pomegranate, a touch of molasses and sweet tobacco. This is one of the best Barbaras that I have encountered in a long time. I could just sit and smell this wine all day!
My next wine was the 2005 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon. Black currant, plum a touch of black pepper and cocoa. The wine is fruit forward with supported by firm but supple tannins and a balanced finish.
My final wine in the line up was the 2005 Sonoma County Cuvee de La Luna ($35) This is a traditional Bordeaux/Meritage style blend (59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 4% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc). Loads of black currant and cherry aromas followed by sage and tobacco on the nose. Dense black cherry and cassis flavors with a slight vanilla and dark chocolate finish. This wine is well balanced, complex and has multiple layers of fruit. There are many wines of this style and this level of quality that sell for twice this price.
Folio Fine Wine Partners - Carneros
My final stop of the day was at Michael Mondavi’s winery. Michael is one of Robert Mondavi’s sons and after the family winery was sold to Constellation Michael started Folio Fine Wine Partners in 2004. This is an interesting approach to a winery as it is both a custom crush facility but also a manager of a collection of exceptional wines from all over the world including California, Spain, Austria and New Zealand. We love sharing high-quality, authentic wines from small wineries. In this manner Folio acts as a wine broker bringing wines to the attention of wholesale distributors who place the brands with retailers and restaurateurs.
In the tasting room I sampled the 2007 Hangtime Chardonnay ($15.99), the 2005 Mayro-Murdick Carneros ($35.99), the 2006 Oberon Merlot ($21.99), the 2006 Oberon Cabernet Sauvignon ($24.99), the Spellbound Petite Syrah ($17.99), and the 2005 Spellbound Old-Vine Zinfandel ($17.99). I thought the Syrah was an exceptional quality and a genuine value at only 18 bucks so I brought a bottle home.
All of these wines were exceptional and the service in the tasting room was polite, courteous, professional and well informed about the winery and the wines. I was also impressed in the stemware made by Senor Frescabaldi, a sort of “one size fits all” that they used for all of the wines which are imported from Italy and sell for $12.00 each.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
A Trio of Historic Wineries in Sonoma
California has a litany of wine regions to explore - Mendocino, Lake Country, Sonoma and Napa in the north, Livermore and Santa Cruz in the San Francisco Bay Area, the Sierra foothills in the east, Lodi in the central valley, long the central coast there is Monterey, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, and then finally in southern California there is Temecula and San Diego.
It also has a lost history of forgotten names, monumental events and prestigious wines. Only now is that which was lost during the Prohibition finally regaining and advancing the lost glory of the 19th century. Providentially we had a break in the rain and two days of sunshine so last weekend I explored three important and historic wineries in Sonoma, each with its own unique story and heritage – Cline Cellars, Buena Vista Carneros and Gundlach Bundschu Winery.
Cline Cellars
Cline Cellars has an interesting history with a great little California Missions museum, perfect for a 4th grade field trip. So whether you are learning about the history of the settlement of the state of California or its viniculture, this is a great place to explore!
Across the street from Cline Cellars is Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, named after Fred Cline's maternal grandfather, Valeriano Jacuzzi, who invented the Jacuzzi spa. The difference between the two is that is Jacuzzi Family Vineyards specializes in Italian varietals whereas Cline Cellars specializes in Rhone varietal wines.
In the latter part of the 1800s Valeriano Jacuzzi moved to Oakley in Contra Costa County (not far from Walnut Creek where I grew up) and that is where Fred Cline was first introduced to wine. Later, Fred earned a degree in Agriculture Management from U.C. Davis and in 1982, with an inheritance from his grandfather, he founded Cline Cellars near Oakley, California. Then in 1991, Fred and his wife Nancy relocated the winery to the Carneros region of Sonoma County on a historic 350-acre estate with new vineyards and facilities. While much of the cool Carneros region is planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot, Fred pioneered the planting of Rhône varietals including Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne.
The first wine I tasted was the 2008 Marsanne-Roussanne blend ($20). Both Marsanne and Rousanne are white grapes that originate from the Northern Rhône and it is not uncommon to find them blended with Viognier, such as in Borra Vineyard’s White Fusion. This wine is consists of 80% Marsanne from Cline’s estate vineyard in Carneros appellation and 20% Roussanne from their Sonoma Coast vineyard. This wine has definite fresh citrus character, nice acidity, well balanced and lively stone fruit flavors.
My next wine was Cline’s 2007 Los Carneros Viognier ($16). Originally grown in the Condrieu and Château-Grillet regions of northern Rhône, these grapes come from vines first planted in Sonoma vineyards in 1990. This has got to be my favorite white wine varietal and a classic version of Viognier will always display a great floral bouquet. Cline’s Viognier is at fair price at $16 and it offers rich and distinctive aromas of peaches, apricots, orange blossoms and honeysuckle.
My first red was the Cline's 2007 Cashmere ($21). This is a classic GSM Rhone varietal red blend of 39% Grenache, 38% Syrah and 23% Mourvèdre. Most of the Grenache for comes from the Massoni Vineyard and Mourvèdre some from their Ancient Vines in and the Syrah is sourced primarily from Paso Robles. The is a fruit forward wine with big cherry, raspberry and chocolate notes with hints of cracked black pepper and plum on the finish.
My second red wine from Cline 2007 was their Ancient Vines Carignane ($16). Dark ruby in color, with concentrated plum, chocolate and clove with hints of dark berries aromas. The 2007 Ancient Vines Carignane is from Cline’s most historic vineyards, many of which are over 100 years old. This was the most differentiated wine of the lineup and my favorite, so I brought a bottle home.
My third red wine was Cline’s 2007 Ancient Vines Mourvèdre ($18). Mourvèdre, also found in the Rhône, is a key component in the famous Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This wine is also known as Mataro which is why it is comparable to Trintas Cellar’s 2006 Old Vine Mataro ($25), also sourced from Contra Costa County, yet for $7 less! The wine exhibits dark plum, chocolate, dusty black berries and just a hint of oak.
My last tasting was Cline’s 2007 Ancient Vines Zinfandel ($18). I’ve been a big fan of Old Vine Zins for quite some time, especially those from Lodi and the Sierra Foothills. Cline’s Zinfandel comes from a blend of old vines from various regions including Oakley’s 80 to 100-year dry farmed sandy, phylloxera-resistant soils as well as old vines from Lodi, the delta waterways and a small amount from Mendocino, and Sonoma. The wine exhibits layers of black cherry, raspberry, pepper and spice with a hint of vanilla and supple tannins. This is a really nice barbeque wine ready to be paired with grilled meats.
Buena Vista Vineyards
Our second stop for the day was at the historic Buena Vista Vineyards (Carneros). I studied this legendary winery and its founder last semester and have wanted to pay a visit ever since then purely for its historical significance. However, after tasting their wines I discovered that there is much more to this winery than merely being a historical landmark, their wines are outstanding!
Before I talk about their wine, let me tell you a little about their founder’s history.
Buena Vista Carneros was founded in 1857 by “The Father of California Viticulture,” Count Agoston Haraszthy (August 30, 1812, - July 6, 1869). Haraszthy was a man ahead of his time - a visionary who laid the ground work for California’s now lost and almost forgotten wine history and culture (due to the aftermath of Prohibition). Hence he is also known as the “Father of Modern Winemaking in California.”
A Hungarian-American traveler, writer, town-builder, and pioneer winemaker in Wisconsin and California, Haraszthy was one of the first men to plant vineyards in Wisconsin and an early and important writer on California wine and viticulture. In California he introduced more than three hundred varieties of European grape varietals. Sadly, the recipients of those vines failed to follow his vision for planting quality varietals in the state and instead discarded them in favor of varietals that produced higher volume and more alcohol.
In 1856, he bought a small vineyard northeast Sonoma, expanded the acreage to 5,000 acres of valley and hillside and renamed it Buena Vista.
In 1857, he bore wine caves into the sides of a nearby mountain, built stone cellars at their entrance and two large stone winery buildings, equipped with underground tunnels and the latest wine-making equipment in California.
In 1858, Haraszthy wrote the “Report on Grapes and Wine of California.” It was published by the California State Agricultural Society and was the first treatise on winemaking written and published in California, and praised as the “first American explication of traditional European winemaking practices.”
In 1863, Haraszthy incorporated the Buena Vista Vinicultural Society, the first large corporation in California (perhaps in the United States) organized for the express purpose of engaging in agriculture. With the support of prominent investors, he greatly expanded his vineyards in Sonoma, making wine which was sold as far away as New York. In 1864, an article in Harper's Magazine proclaimed that Buena Vista was “the largest establishment of the kind in the world.”
Long after its founder’s passing, Buena Vista has continued to be an important player in the revival of California’s wine culture. In the 1960s, Buena Vista helped pioneer the Carneros wine region, the only sub-AVA (American Viticulture Area) that covers two AVAs, Napa and Sonoma just north of the San Pablo Bay. The climate of this area makes it ideal for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
In March, 2007, Haraszthy was inducted into the Vintners Hall of Fame by the Culinary Institute of America. Seventy wine journalists cast ballots, honoring Haraszthy for his contributions to the early development of the wine industry in California. The award was accepted in Haraszthy's behalf by his great-great grandson, Vallejo Haraszthy.
The Wines of Buena Vista Carneros
The winery is a bit off the beaten path, tucked back into the hills and hidden under a canopy of oak trees and the foot of a hillside. After you park your car you’ll feel like you are away at camp as you walk along a long path through a grove of oak and pine trees.
After snapping a few photos, my friend and I ventured into the old stone building, where we bellied up to the wine tasting bar. Above the tasting room along a walkway you can read a visual timeline that marks the significant people and events in the history of the winery as well as take a peak at a collection of bottles from the winery’s historical vintages.
Our first wine was the 2007 Carneros Pinot Gris ($22) This French grape was originally a mutation of Pinot Noir. It is known as “Pinot Grigo” in Italy where it has a distinctive style and in Germany it is known as Rulander, where it tends to be a blend of French and Italian styles. Buena Vista’s Pinot Gris is crisp and refreshing with classic flavors of pineapple, pear, nectarine, tangerine melon and citrus fruit.
Our second wine was the 2006 Ramal Vineyard Chardonnay, Dijon Clone ($36) This is a well balanced and focused wine with a well integrated character of fruit, floral accents, acidity and oak. Exhibiting green-apple, lemon, pear, and vanilla with a candied ginger finish.
I was impressed with the Dijon clones more even more so with out next wine, the 2005 Ramal Vineyard Chardonnay ($36). This wine’s blend of various clones undoubtedly is a major contributor to its complex and multilayered character of green apple, apple pie, pear, citrus, mineral, and hazelnut.
Our first red wine was the 2005 Carneros Pinot Noir ($25). Although this Pinot was much more affordable than the following versions, I found this one to be the most Burgundian as it portrays a definite sense of fruit and terrior with bright cherry, a nuttiness, and an earthy-mushroominess. It is not easy to find Pinot Noirs of this sort in California so I brought a bottle home with me, a definitely wise purchase at only 25 bucks.
Our next wine was the 2006 Ramal Vineyard Pinot Noir, Swan Selection ($42). This is a much more intense and fruit forward version, garnet and purple in color with floral aromas followed by fresh cherry, raspberry, cranberry, orange peel, clove, cardamom and just a hint of cinnamon toast.
Our final wine was the 2006 Ramal Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dijon Clones ($42). This wine is very distinct from our previous wines with aromas of blackberry, mocha, toast, forest floor, cardamom and roasted nuts. Whereas our first Pinot had definite earthiness this was is more fruit forward with really nice acidity, bright cherry cola, sweet pipe tobacco and a slight reminiscence of chocolate covered maraschino cherries.
Gundlach Bundschu Winery
After a relaxing picnic lunch at Buenna Vista, our final stop for the day was at Gundlach Bundschu Winery. While Buena Vista is the “oldest premier winery” Gundlach Bundschu is often claims to be “California’s oldest family-owned winery” as it is still owned and operated by the founder’s heirs and today led by the sixth generation, Jeff Bundschu.
Not far from Buena Vista, the winery’s 320-acre estate vineyard, named Rhinefarm by Bavarian-born Jacob Gundlach in 1858, is at the crossroads of the Sonoma Valley, Los Carneros AVA and Napa Valley AVA, along the Mayacamas Mountains. The winery is quite a drive from the main road and you will pass through their vineyards as you make your way to tasting room and wine cave tucked back into the hills
They had a number of wines available and you can choose four from a long line up for a fee of $5. My first wine was the 2007 Gewürztraminer ($25). This wine was a welcome surprise as so few California wineries produce this spicy Alsatian wine. This wine has a great nose of exotic flowers followed by bright and fresh flavors of ripe pear, peach, nectarine, passion fruit, orange zest, golden raisons and mango.
My second taste was the 2005 Tempranillo ($33). I LOVED this wine! I could have spent hours on the nose alone. It can be a bit difficult to find this grape in California and when I do I am rarely impressed. Of all the reds I tasted at Gundlach Bundschu this was my definite favorite. Loads of pomegranate and cherry on the immeidate nose followed by a spicy beef-jerky, dusty berry and hebral tea on the palate with bright acidity.
My third wine was the 2006 Syrah ($36). This wine screams, “Rhone!” on the nose and has one of the supplest velvety textures on the palate I have ever felt in a syrah. This is a far cry from the in-your-face peppery versions typical of New World Syrahs. It has plenty of black cherry and rasberry fruit, a little cocoa followed by a pleasing and prolonged smoke and spicy finish.
My fourth wine was the 2005 Mountain Cuvee ($24). A blend of Cabernet Sauvigon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah that displays a bit of toast, spice, plum, black cherry, raspberries and a touch of cocoa. I couldn’t quite put my finger on the direct cause, but this wine seemed to lack focus as the various flavors seems to be fighting with each other for dominance rather than integrating well together. It was like an orchestra with many instruments but no conductor to bring it all together. However, I suspect that if this wine was paired appropriately with the right food, such as a meaty dish, the meal might pulled out of this wine a player to be the first violin.
Last but not least, my fifth wine was the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) Complex aromas of blackberry, black currant, a little new leather, and grilled meat on the nose that are confirmed on the palate with the addition of cocoa and freshly brewed cappicino.
There is more to wine than what is in the glass. The wine is a reflection of the land, soil, climate and weather as well as the people who have artistically and patiently nurtured the wine to its maturity. If you really want to gain a greater appreciation of wine in your own tasting adventures, take the time to learn a little about the heritage of the wineries and the winemakers who standing on the shoulders of giants.
It also has a lost history of forgotten names, monumental events and prestigious wines. Only now is that which was lost during the Prohibition finally regaining and advancing the lost glory of the 19th century. Providentially we had a break in the rain and two days of sunshine so last weekend I explored three important and historic wineries in Sonoma, each with its own unique story and heritage – Cline Cellars, Buena Vista Carneros and Gundlach Bundschu Winery.
Cline Cellars
Cline Cellars has an interesting history with a great little California Missions museum, perfect for a 4th grade field trip. So whether you are learning about the history of the settlement of the state of California or its viniculture, this is a great place to explore!
Across the street from Cline Cellars is Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, named after Fred Cline's maternal grandfather, Valeriano Jacuzzi, who invented the Jacuzzi spa. The difference between the two is that is Jacuzzi Family Vineyards specializes in Italian varietals whereas Cline Cellars specializes in Rhone varietal wines.
In the latter part of the 1800s Valeriano Jacuzzi moved to Oakley in Contra Costa County (not far from Walnut Creek where I grew up) and that is where Fred Cline was first introduced to wine. Later, Fred earned a degree in Agriculture Management from U.C. Davis and in 1982, with an inheritance from his grandfather, he founded Cline Cellars near Oakley, California. Then in 1991, Fred and his wife Nancy relocated the winery to the Carneros region of Sonoma County on a historic 350-acre estate with new vineyards and facilities. While much of the cool Carneros region is planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot, Fred pioneered the planting of Rhône varietals including Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne.
The first wine I tasted was the 2008 Marsanne-Roussanne blend ($20). Both Marsanne and Rousanne are white grapes that originate from the Northern Rhône and it is not uncommon to find them blended with Viognier, such as in Borra Vineyard’s White Fusion. This wine is consists of 80% Marsanne from Cline’s estate vineyard in Carneros appellation and 20% Roussanne from their Sonoma Coast vineyard. This wine has definite fresh citrus character, nice acidity, well balanced and lively stone fruit flavors.
My next wine was Cline’s 2007 Los Carneros Viognier ($16). Originally grown in the Condrieu and Château-Grillet regions of northern Rhône, these grapes come from vines first planted in Sonoma vineyards in 1990. This has got to be my favorite white wine varietal and a classic version of Viognier will always display a great floral bouquet. Cline’s Viognier is at fair price at $16 and it offers rich and distinctive aromas of peaches, apricots, orange blossoms and honeysuckle.
My first red was the Cline's 2007 Cashmere ($21). This is a classic GSM Rhone varietal red blend of 39% Grenache, 38% Syrah and 23% Mourvèdre. Most of the Grenache for comes from the Massoni Vineyard and Mourvèdre some from their Ancient Vines in and the Syrah is sourced primarily from Paso Robles. The is a fruit forward wine with big cherry, raspberry and chocolate notes with hints of cracked black pepper and plum on the finish.
My second red wine from Cline 2007 was their Ancient Vines Carignane ($16). Dark ruby in color, with concentrated plum, chocolate and clove with hints of dark berries aromas. The 2007 Ancient Vines Carignane is from Cline’s most historic vineyards, many of which are over 100 years old. This was the most differentiated wine of the lineup and my favorite, so I brought a bottle home.
My third red wine was Cline’s 2007 Ancient Vines Mourvèdre ($18). Mourvèdre, also found in the Rhône, is a key component in the famous Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This wine is also known as Mataro which is why it is comparable to Trintas Cellar’s 2006 Old Vine Mataro ($25), also sourced from Contra Costa County, yet for $7 less! The wine exhibits dark plum, chocolate, dusty black berries and just a hint of oak.
My last tasting was Cline’s 2007 Ancient Vines Zinfandel ($18). I’ve been a big fan of Old Vine Zins for quite some time, especially those from Lodi and the Sierra Foothills. Cline’s Zinfandel comes from a blend of old vines from various regions including Oakley’s 80 to 100-year dry farmed sandy, phylloxera-resistant soils as well as old vines from Lodi, the delta waterways and a small amount from Mendocino, and Sonoma. The wine exhibits layers of black cherry, raspberry, pepper and spice with a hint of vanilla and supple tannins. This is a really nice barbeque wine ready to be paired with grilled meats.
Buena Vista Vineyards
Our second stop for the day was at the historic Buena Vista Vineyards (Carneros). I studied this legendary winery and its founder last semester and have wanted to pay a visit ever since then purely for its historical significance. However, after tasting their wines I discovered that there is much more to this winery than merely being a historical landmark, their wines are outstanding!
Before I talk about their wine, let me tell you a little about their founder’s history.
Buena Vista Carneros was founded in 1857 by “The Father of California Viticulture,” Count Agoston Haraszthy (August 30, 1812, - July 6, 1869). Haraszthy was a man ahead of his time - a visionary who laid the ground work for California’s now lost and almost forgotten wine history and culture (due to the aftermath of Prohibition). Hence he is also known as the “Father of Modern Winemaking in California.”
A Hungarian-American traveler, writer, town-builder, and pioneer winemaker in Wisconsin and California, Haraszthy was one of the first men to plant vineyards in Wisconsin and an early and important writer on California wine and viticulture. In California he introduced more than three hundred varieties of European grape varietals. Sadly, the recipients of those vines failed to follow his vision for planting quality varietals in the state and instead discarded them in favor of varietals that produced higher volume and more alcohol.
In 1856, he bought a small vineyard northeast Sonoma, expanded the acreage to 5,000 acres of valley and hillside and renamed it Buena Vista.
In 1857, he bore wine caves into the sides of a nearby mountain, built stone cellars at their entrance and two large stone winery buildings, equipped with underground tunnels and the latest wine-making equipment in California.
In 1858, Haraszthy wrote the “Report on Grapes and Wine of California.” It was published by the California State Agricultural Society and was the first treatise on winemaking written and published in California, and praised as the “first American explication of traditional European winemaking practices.”
In 1863, Haraszthy incorporated the Buena Vista Vinicultural Society, the first large corporation in California (perhaps in the United States) organized for the express purpose of engaging in agriculture. With the support of prominent investors, he greatly expanded his vineyards in Sonoma, making wine which was sold as far away as New York. In 1864, an article in Harper's Magazine proclaimed that Buena Vista was “the largest establishment of the kind in the world.”
Long after its founder’s passing, Buena Vista has continued to be an important player in the revival of California’s wine culture. In the 1960s, Buena Vista helped pioneer the Carneros wine region, the only sub-AVA (American Viticulture Area) that covers two AVAs, Napa and Sonoma just north of the San Pablo Bay. The climate of this area makes it ideal for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
In March, 2007, Haraszthy was inducted into the Vintners Hall of Fame by the Culinary Institute of America. Seventy wine journalists cast ballots, honoring Haraszthy for his contributions to the early development of the wine industry in California. The award was accepted in Haraszthy's behalf by his great-great grandson, Vallejo Haraszthy.
The Wines of Buena Vista Carneros
The winery is a bit off the beaten path, tucked back into the hills and hidden under a canopy of oak trees and the foot of a hillside. After you park your car you’ll feel like you are away at camp as you walk along a long path through a grove of oak and pine trees.
After snapping a few photos, my friend and I ventured into the old stone building, where we bellied up to the wine tasting bar. Above the tasting room along a walkway you can read a visual timeline that marks the significant people and events in the history of the winery as well as take a peak at a collection of bottles from the winery’s historical vintages.
Our first wine was the 2007 Carneros Pinot Gris ($22) This French grape was originally a mutation of Pinot Noir. It is known as “Pinot Grigo” in Italy where it has a distinctive style and in Germany it is known as Rulander, where it tends to be a blend of French and Italian styles. Buena Vista’s Pinot Gris is crisp and refreshing with classic flavors of pineapple, pear, nectarine, tangerine melon and citrus fruit.
Our second wine was the 2006 Ramal Vineyard Chardonnay, Dijon Clone ($36) This is a well balanced and focused wine with a well integrated character of fruit, floral accents, acidity and oak. Exhibiting green-apple, lemon, pear, and vanilla with a candied ginger finish.
I was impressed with the Dijon clones more even more so with out next wine, the 2005 Ramal Vineyard Chardonnay ($36). This wine’s blend of various clones undoubtedly is a major contributor to its complex and multilayered character of green apple, apple pie, pear, citrus, mineral, and hazelnut.
Our first red wine was the 2005 Carneros Pinot Noir ($25). Although this Pinot was much more affordable than the following versions, I found this one to be the most Burgundian as it portrays a definite sense of fruit and terrior with bright cherry, a nuttiness, and an earthy-mushroominess. It is not easy to find Pinot Noirs of this sort in California so I brought a bottle home with me, a definitely wise purchase at only 25 bucks.
Our next wine was the 2006 Ramal Vineyard Pinot Noir, Swan Selection ($42). This is a much more intense and fruit forward version, garnet and purple in color with floral aromas followed by fresh cherry, raspberry, cranberry, orange peel, clove, cardamom and just a hint of cinnamon toast.
Our final wine was the 2006 Ramal Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dijon Clones ($42). This wine is very distinct from our previous wines with aromas of blackberry, mocha, toast, forest floor, cardamom and roasted nuts. Whereas our first Pinot had definite earthiness this was is more fruit forward with really nice acidity, bright cherry cola, sweet pipe tobacco and a slight reminiscence of chocolate covered maraschino cherries.
Gundlach Bundschu Winery
After a relaxing picnic lunch at Buenna Vista, our final stop for the day was at Gundlach Bundschu Winery. While Buena Vista is the “oldest premier winery” Gundlach Bundschu is often claims to be “California’s oldest family-owned winery” as it is still owned and operated by the founder’s heirs and today led by the sixth generation, Jeff Bundschu.
Not far from Buena Vista, the winery’s 320-acre estate vineyard, named Rhinefarm by Bavarian-born Jacob Gundlach in 1858, is at the crossroads of the Sonoma Valley, Los Carneros AVA and Napa Valley AVA, along the Mayacamas Mountains. The winery is quite a drive from the main road and you will pass through their vineyards as you make your way to tasting room and wine cave tucked back into the hills
They had a number of wines available and you can choose four from a long line up for a fee of $5. My first wine was the 2007 Gewürztraminer ($25). This wine was a welcome surprise as so few California wineries produce this spicy Alsatian wine. This wine has a great nose of exotic flowers followed by bright and fresh flavors of ripe pear, peach, nectarine, passion fruit, orange zest, golden raisons and mango.
My second taste was the 2005 Tempranillo ($33). I LOVED this wine! I could have spent hours on the nose alone. It can be a bit difficult to find this grape in California and when I do I am rarely impressed. Of all the reds I tasted at Gundlach Bundschu this was my definite favorite. Loads of pomegranate and cherry on the immeidate nose followed by a spicy beef-jerky, dusty berry and hebral tea on the palate with bright acidity.
My third wine was the 2006 Syrah ($36). This wine screams, “Rhone!” on the nose and has one of the supplest velvety textures on the palate I have ever felt in a syrah. This is a far cry from the in-your-face peppery versions typical of New World Syrahs. It has plenty of black cherry and rasberry fruit, a little cocoa followed by a pleasing and prolonged smoke and spicy finish.
My fourth wine was the 2005 Mountain Cuvee ($24). A blend of Cabernet Sauvigon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah that displays a bit of toast, spice, plum, black cherry, raspberries and a touch of cocoa. I couldn’t quite put my finger on the direct cause, but this wine seemed to lack focus as the various flavors seems to be fighting with each other for dominance rather than integrating well together. It was like an orchestra with many instruments but no conductor to bring it all together. However, I suspect that if this wine was paired appropriately with the right food, such as a meaty dish, the meal might pulled out of this wine a player to be the first violin.
Last but not least, my fifth wine was the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) Complex aromas of blackberry, black currant, a little new leather, and grilled meat on the nose that are confirmed on the palate with the addition of cocoa and freshly brewed cappicino.
There is more to wine than what is in the glass. The wine is a reflection of the land, soil, climate and weather as well as the people who have artistically and patiently nurtured the wine to its maturity. If you really want to gain a greater appreciation of wine in your own tasting adventures, take the time to learn a little about the heritage of the wineries and the winemakers who standing on the shoulders of giants.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Adventures in the Napa Valley During Mustard Season
A trip to the wine country is an adventure in sights, smells, sounds and of course… tastes. Every season has something different to offer and its own unique beauty. In the spring the grass in the hills are a lush green and the canes are beginning to sprout on the vines. By summer the grass has turned brown but the vines now abound with grapes. Around mid July the grapes change color as they go through verasion. Then the hustle and bustle of autumn arrives as harvest takes place and the grape leaves begin to turn to various shades of light green, hues of golden yellow and red.
But of all the seasons I find that winter is the most beautiful, particularly in the Napa Valley in the months of February and March. Oceans of Mustard flowers fill the vineyard landscape resulting in picturesque views along Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail. The old vines that have been pruned look like gnarly arthritic hands and in between each row are layers of mustard flowers, California poppies and purple lupines.
It can be a little challenging to find a nice day to take pictures during this time for this is also the rainy season. But when Providence offers you a break in a storm to venture out into the vineyards, it is the perfect opportunity to grab your camera and snap away.
The ground is usually fairly muddy so you’ll need good hiking boots or old sneakers that you don’t mind messing up. You may also want to bring along with you a step ladder so you can get the “over the hedge” shot of the rows of vines. Otherwise your photos will be restricted to only the eye level.
So, every year I throw a 6 foot ladder into the back of my truck and when the weather is right I head out early in the morning with camera in hand, driving from Los Carneros all the way up to Calistoga in search of the perfect shot. The above video is a collection of pics I took over the past two years.
The Napa Valley has many mustard related events this time of year as they celebrate the Mustard Festival (http://www.mustardfestival.org/ ) The Napa Valley Mustard Festival “celebrates the food, wine, art and rich, unique agricultural bounty of the Napa Valley” and there are a number of events that go hand in hand with the "Mustard Season" from January 31st - March 28, 2009.
Monday, February 9, 2009
Valentine’s Day - A Wine and Chocolate Weekend!
When it comes to food and wine pairing I tend to think of what varietal will best match the main course in a dinner or lunch along with its side dishes. The goal is to arrange the tastes and sensations that are either complimentary (or interestingly contrasting) so that there is a perfect harmony and balance on the plate that becomes the perfect meal.
However, there is an entirely different category of pairing food and wine which is completely hedonistic - wine with desert. The course is not for nourishment or to satisfy hunger but to just enjoy the dish purely for the sake of pleasure of the tastes in and of themselves.
It is not about consuming great quantities (for a little goes a long way) but experiencing small portions of intense flavor that excites the palate. The satisifaction is in the perfection of the flavors (usually sweet) not in how it satisfies one’s appetitte.
Personally, I rarely eat deserts these days but now and then I’ll dabble in what often seems like a little taste from heaven and I can think of no other paring that suits that description more than wine and chocolate.
This coming weekend the Lodi Wine Country will be celebrating a Wine & Chocolate Valentine’s Day from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and I personally will be serving in the tasting room at Borra Vineyards (http://www.borrawinery.com/).
If you are free for the day, come out and join us at the 12th annual Wine & Chocolate Extravaganza! You can travel from winery to winery throughout the Lodi Appellation tasting world-class wines, savoring delectable chocolates, and listening to a variety of music. The price includes a souvenir wine glass, commemorative chocolate bar, wine tasting, and map to all participating wineries. Tickets may be purchased in advance at the Lodi Wine & Visitor Center (209) 365-0621 or on line at: http://www.lodiwineandchocolate.com/
If you own or work for a winery and are looking for quality chocolate to pair with your wine or create wine-filled chocolate treats, then I highly recommend the excellent service of Gorman Confections. Check out their web site at: http://www.gormanconfections.com/
Be sure to tell them you heard about them from Erik Wait at Adventures in Wine Tasting!
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